First off thanks!!! I tried to make a tutorial but it ended up extremely vague and more of a step-by-step of a headshot i drew today for this purpose whoops;;;
This is one layer but If it’s a complicated drawing then i’ll draw it out and line it with a thin brush with no pressure sensitivity, and then bucket fill the shapes on separate layers, usually 1 layer per character and one layer for the bg.
I also might do color adjustment layers and merge them down as I go but I got lucky this time and didn’t have to make any adjustments.
I work on one layer but every 30 minutes or before I begin a new stage (hair, the eyes) I’ll duplicate that layer and paint on the topmost one. This way I can check to see if I over-rendered by hiding the top layer. If i over-render or mess something up, then I have that back-up layer that I can go back to and start that part again.
Some additional things:
- lost edges are where the edge of a shape bleeds into the other without any visible separation between the two. If you don’t need an edge consider getting rid of it for a more painterly look
- The very very darkest shadows on skin are almost always warm. Even if the light source is cool, the nostril will be a warmer color than the rest of the skin.
- warm light: cool shadows
- cool light: warm shadows
- Vary the hue here and there with little flecks of bright colors that harmonize with the local color of the object to make things pop
- If the background is dark, draw a very thin orange or dark pinkish line where the skin meets the bg. This is called a corona and will make the skin look like it’s glowing
- you don’t need to use pure black AND pure white in the same image every single time
- The eye is drawn to hard edges, so use them where it counts!!
- Read Richard Schmidt’s Alla Prima for more of this kind of stuff. I got most of these ideas from that book
- and proko’s youtube channel
- ps that’s makoto
That’s all I can think of right now!!
Sai Animation Assistant
Because attempting to animate in the purgatory that is a midway between Sai and Photoshop is akin to sawing off your dick with a nail file, I got around to this last week.
The goal is to allow for viewing of wip animations being made in Sai without having to load the project into Photoshop, Flash, or whatever your external timeline of choice is. Essentially, you export each frame as a .png into a folder and then just overwrite them in the same way when you want to update a frame.
On load it defaults to whatever directory it’s sitting in, but if you want to keep it somewhere else you can select the folder source post-load.
Images are loaded alphabetically, so all of these are valid:
- a.png, b.png, c.png
- 1.png, 2.png, 3.png
- Frame1.png, Frame2.png, Frame3.png.
It runs off .png files because I don’t see why you’d use any other format in 2014. If anyone desperately wants .jpeg support or something I can add a toggle though.
Image locations are loaded fresh upon each iteration and held within the program so you can add, update and remove frames without stopping it if you want to. This means you can leave it open on a second monitor and have a looping preview without leaving Sai.
Shit runs on .net 4.5 since C# is cakewalk for stuff like this.
this is going to kill my hand jfc why did i decide this was how I wanted to do the hair wh y
here is a MUCH HAIR tip that will probably make your life %10 easier!
pick any brush u want and freely sketch yo hair
ctrl + click the hair layer to select it
increment by 1 or 2 depending how thick you like your lines
make a new layer under your hair layer
fill with desired color
I’m already almost done lining this hair monster but thank you so much for the tip I’ll use it the next time I draw shiroba!
Inktober is a week away and I’ve been getting lots of questions about what tools I use and recommend for inking. So I made a list of the essentials.
Go to www.mrjakeparker.com/inktober for Inktober rules and resources. #inktober
- Pigma Micron
The best pen to start inking with. They have a tough felt tip that draws a firm mark and are great for understanding the basics of laying a line down.
- Uni Pin Pen
An alternative to the Pigma. Tips feel a little looser.
- Pigma Brush Pen
A good intro to drawing with a looser line. Tip is felt and can fray over the course of several drawings. Is recommended for larger drawings. Hard to get detailed with it.
- Kuretake Fudegokochi Brush Pen - Regular
This is a molded felt tip which means it’s sturdy like the Pigmas but you get a more expressive line like the brush pens. Ink is nice and dark.
- Pentel XFL2L Scientific Brush - Medium Size
This pen is a great introduction to drawing with a brush tip. It’s tip is composed of nylon fibers and are filled with aqueous dye-based inks and dry extremely dark. You can get the finest of lines and the thickest of strokes with this. Pentel also has these in two other sizes I believe. Plus it has ink refills.
- Pentel Pocket Brush Pen
My work horse. Also a nylon brush tip, it offers a smooth and powerful line and can also give you fun expressive lines too. I’ve been drawing with this pen for years and it holds up to a beating, yet will still give you a fine delicate line if you need it. I highly reccommend it.
- Kuretake No. 13 Fountain Brush Pen
I just got this pen and it’s beautiful. The lines are rich yet sharp. It’s great for details and broad strokes. The pen has a little more weight to it so you feel like you’re actually holding something. The fine nylon bristles have a satisfying snap to it allowing you to intuitively move from thick to thin. I love it.
- Winsor & Newton Series 7 Kolinsky Sable Water Colour Brush size 1This is what brush pens wish they were. This is the gold standard, Rolls Royce of inking tools. It’s the brush Bill Watterson drew Calvin and Hobbes with. No nylon, synthetics, or plastic here, just wood, metal, and hair. There’s nothing quite like drawing with one. The ONLY draw back is you have to dip is in ink, which can get tedious, especially while under a deadline.
After 6 years of using this program I finally figured this out, so I decided to share the technique. IDK, it sure beats the “Use brush with no pen pressure to make a dot” type of thing.
The use of the vector layer comes with other nifty things like:
- No decrease in quality while transforming
- No 500px size limit
- Playing with line thickness and distortion
So, I hope this comes in handy to a few of you!
You can make a Hexagon by using the Line Tool instead and turning the canvas 4 times each click. I’m sure you can do other things, but I haven’t figured those out yet.
More useful thingalings!